For a true Istanbul’lu snack, head down to the ferry port in Eminonu. All year long, there are four or five boats docked there with huge grills on them, and on those grills are the tastiest fish to be found in Turkey. For 4 Tl. you can get a balik (fish) sandwich from the merrily costumed men that are moving too quickly to get a good photo of them. It’s a little discombobulating to order your fish, because they are moving at lightning speed in order to keep up with the demand, but they will help you…albeit quickly.
All types of people are seated at the short table and stools, and all of them are interested in watching the yabanci (foreigner) try this delicacy. They will make sure that you put on the right amount of lemon juice and salt, and look on fondly as you enjoy it.
You can just sit there and have the other vendors round out your meal. There is the great lemonade, or the pickled turnip juice, or the honeyed warm donuts. You are welcome to try them all, but I can personally vouch for everything except the turnips. I still will have to work up some nerve for that one. At any rate, you can have more than a decent lunch for a mere 6 Tl. per person, and it’s well worth it.