February 2010
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Who Needs to Cruise the Alaska Highway?

Canadian lighthouse we pass on our way to Alaska.

Canadian lighthouse we pass on our way to Alaska.

After having lived in Alaska for eight years, I’ve run into so many people who have taken Alaskan cruises. It’s the thing to do. Um, not for me. We’ve taken the Alaska ferry system (Alaska Marine Highway) numerous times and it never ceases to be less than amazing. The ferry dock is located in Bellingham, Washington. I’m not sure how people get to it. There must be some form of public transportation from Seattle or SeaTac airport, because there are often about 200 walk-ons.

We have always driven and taken our car on board. The first time we took the ferry, we went ahead and got a stateroom, because the girls were with us and they were young. There are two different staterooms, one with four bunks and a bathroom, and one with two bunks and a bathroom. It was nice having our own facilities, but certainly not necessary. Instead what we do now is rush to the top of the ship to the Solarium. There we scope out a good spot, snag a lawn chair, and set up our sleeping bags. Once claimed, no one bothers your stuff. Some people put up tents on the top two decks, and that gives them a little more privacy, but we’ve always been happy with the deck chairs.

The ferry leaves Bellingham and, after about two days, makes its first port of call at Ketchikan. While the ferry is off-loading and then on-loading, passengers may leave the ship on foot. This is good for those that brought animals, because they can go get them out of the hold and walk them on grass. Usually the ship is in port anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. We got off in Juneau and Ketchikan, and then we off-loaded at the end of the line in Skagway. On board, there are many things to do.

There is a forward area where a park ranger holds various talks; there is a bar; a cinema which plays movies (usually for kids); and there are two places to eat, a cafeteria and a restaurant. People also bring their own food and keep it in their cars, staterooms, or lockers as well. For walk-ons, there are free showers and there is even a coin laundry. Really you are quite entertained and well taken care of while you are on board. Two of the best parts of the voyage are the scenery and wildlife viewing and getting to know the other passengers.

The solarium where we slept on deck chairs.  You can see the heaters and the few tents that were also on the deck.

The solarium where we slept on deck chairs. You can see the heaters and the few tents that were also on the deck.

On this past voyage, we saw eagles, porpoises, whales, and sea lions. Some of the passengers we met were families moving to Alaska with the military, a dad and daughter motorcycle team, and we had a blast with a bunch of Coast Guard sailors as well. On a previous voyage, we met some other great characters, and one story, in particular sticks with me, and I think it really demonstrates how well you get to know people.

There was a single woman with two children who walked on board. She had not had a wonderful couple of years, and her husband had left her, she’d lost her job, and things were just not going well. As she was struggling, she started corresponding with an old high school sweetheart, who had moved to Alaska to live off of the land. He kept inviting her to come, but she was reticent. Did she really want to move away from everything she knew, pack up her kids, and move to Alaska? It sounded risky, but after she’d lost her job, she figured why not?

She and the children were in the Solarium, and were reduced to eating cereal. She had spent her last dollars on her passage. None of them complained, and even though the kids ran around a little, they were pretty well behaved. We arrived in Juneau, and we had three hours. However, the ferry dock is 18 miles from town, so there really wasn’t much to do, except order a pizza. This we did, and then we ate it sitting in the waiting room with about 30 other passengers. The woman and her children were there, and they were also waiting. They were waiting to be picked up by this man, her savior.

After fifteen minutes and the pizza was all gone we just sat there and waited, and waited. No one came. It was getting close to the time that we were supposed to be back on the ferry, and still no one came. The woman, trying not to let her worries show, tried calling on the pay phone again and again. All of us were getting so anxious. We didn’t want to leave this woman and her two children to an unknown future. We were all sitting there; no one talked; we just kept hoping and willing this man to come. With about about five minutes left to get on the ship, in walks this huge mountain man, complete in leather duster and wild hair down past his shoulders. He strides in; she runs to him. He picks her up and twirls her around. He looks at the waiting room and apologizes for his lateness. We all breathed a sigh of relief, loaded the boat and left for our next destination.

These are just some of the reasons you should take the Alaska ferry. It’s an unforgettable experience.

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