Reflections Enroute » Istanbul

Ode to Balik(s)!

corinne — Fri, 09 Jul 2010 08:00:40 +0000

For a true Istanbul’lu snack, head down to the ferry port in Eminonu. All year long, there are four or five boats docked there with huge grills on them, and on those grills are the tastiest fish to be found in Turkey. For 4 Tl. you can get a balik (fish) sandwich from the merrily costumed men that are moving too quickly to get a good photo of them. It’s a little discombobulating to order your fish, because they are moving at lightning speed in order to keep up with the demand, but they will help you…albeit quickly.

All types of people are seated at the short table and stools, and all of them are interested in watching the yabanci (foreigner) try this delicacy. They will make sure that you put on the right amount of lemon juice and salt, and look on fondly as you enjoy it.

You can just sit there and have the other vendors round out your meal. There is the great lemonade, or the pickled turnip juice, or the honeyed warm donuts. You are welcome to try them all, but I can personally vouch for everything except the turnips. I still will have to work up some nerve for that one. At any rate, you can have more than a decent lunch for a mere 6 Tl. per person, and it’s well worth it.

Climbing the Walls at Rumelihisari

corinne — Mon, 05 Jul 2010 08:00:59 +0000

Istanbul, the only city in the world to span two continents- two cultures. There’s no better place to see this phenomenon than at the formidable fortress of Rumeli. It looms over one of the narrowest parts of the Bosphorus, at only 660 meters. Built by Sultan Mehmet II in order to besiege Constantinople and wrest the power from Constantine XI, the fortress only took a little over four months to erect. From there you can also see the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge which is the only way to drive from Europe to Asia as well.

Rumeli is not on the main tourist track, because it’s not close to Sultan Ahmet and the likes of the Blue Mosque, and it doesn’t even have a fabulous museum. What Rumelihisari does have is a great story, a sense of romanticism, and for those of us who like to scramble around old fortresses, plenty of walls, towers, and stairs. It also has one of the best views in the entire world, one of Europe and Asia. Who can beat that?

The Turks come to this area to eat a traditional kahvalti or breakfast. There are many cafes at the base of the fortress that serve eggs (with various ingredients), bread, honey, and yogurt. They will eat breakfast like this until at least 3:00 in the afternoon. One of the most famous of these restaurants is the Kale Cafe. We’ve eaten there a couple of times, and it’s pretty darn good. If you go, ask to take a picture of their cay stand in the kitchen.

It really is pretty easy to get to Rumelihisari. From bustling Eminonu, or any metro stop near the main tourist sites for that matter, take the metro towards Kabatas. From there you have to cross the street to the buses and take the 22, 22RE, or 25E. These are all very frequent and you won’t have to wait more than five minutes. Tell the bus driver as you get on where you are going and try to sit not too far from him. He’ll take care of you and tell you where to get off if you happen to miss the not-too-tiny fortress. Rumelihisari costs 3 Tl. to get in and it’s closed on Wednesdays.

Marveling at the Whirling Dervishes in Istanbul

corinne — Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:00:02 +0000

Whirling Dervish at the Hoja Pasa Hamam.

One of the icons that foreigners associate with Turkey is that of the whirling Dervish.

Wearing a white robe and tall felt hat, a Suni Muslim from the Mevlani order enters into a trance and with all the solemnity and devoutness of the faithful, whirls and whirls and whirls.

As a tourist, we always want to experience, or at least view, important ceremonies or traditions of the country we are visiting, and this is one of those ceremonies. In December of each year, there are many shows in Konya, the city of origin, but you can see a shortened and somewhat informational version any day at the Hoja Pasha Art and Culture Center in Istanbul. The show is held in a 550 year restored haman (public bath) and costs about 40 Tl. for a one hour show. It is a small venue so you can see and hear everything well no matter where you are seated.

The show begins with some traditional music, and then slowly the Dervishes come out, reveal their white robes, pray, and begin to whirl. It is a touching ceremony, and just long enough for you to really appreciate their devoutness.

If you would like to make reservations phone: +90-212-211-4626 or 4636 or email: info@hodjapasha.com.

Intriguing Istanbul

corinne — Wed, 01 Jul 2009 19:00:49 +0000

Throne room in Topkapi's harem.

Istanbul – the only city to span two continents, spreads charm as thick as hummus in all directions. Situated on the Bosphorus bridging two major bodies of water, Istanbul has been a trading center for centuries. On the edge of both Europe and Asia, everything about Istanbul is a little confused. Desperately trying to join the European Union, it defies letting go of its Asian side, its quirky side. For a look into the past as well as a splash right into modern life, the European side has plenty to offer, but if you want take a glance into Turkish life, Asia is where it’s at.

Whether you’re looking for history or just a night on the town, Istanbul delivers. Experience life of the sultans at Top Kapi, enjoy a dondurma right in the middle of Sultan Ahmet, explore one of the oldest and most important religious buildings of all time -Hagia Sophia, and discover other treasures such as the Blue Mosque and Rumeli Hisari.

After a semi-restful night on the train from Ankara, we arrived, had some breakie, dropped off our bags, then headed out for one of those touring days that just never ends. Istanbul is one of the most exciting, exotic, diverse, friendliest places on earth, but argh…is there ever a lot to see and do….and we wanted to show the girls it all!

After living in Turkey for almost one year, I have to admit the entry fees and constant barrage of touts was wearing thin quick. You just don’t really experience that too many places, and it’s sooooo unnecessary. The best way to deal with them is not to engage them in any way.

The girls were impressed at the deals I was getting in the Grand Bazaar since I could speak some Turkish. At one stall, the vendor kept lowering his prices on t-shirts, and we kept walking away until in Turkish he said he would sell me two for 15 tl. , a “special” price. Of course, I took him up on it. He did try to weasel out of it later, but I didn’t let him.

Boys in the circumcision costumes.

Here are a few pics of our few days in the city. To see more, please visit www.reflectionsenroute.com .

The Two Largest Cities by Night Train

corinne — Mon, 29 Jun 2009 19:00:19 +0000

Bunks on the Anadolu Express

Since the girls are here, we wanted to take them to Istanbul. We’ve heard numerous people tell us about the night train and what a great deal it was, 60 TL. each way; getting into the city in the morning, so you don’t have to pay for another night’s hotel or waste your daytime getting there. We decided to do it and booked tickets direct from the train station about a week before we were to leave. We were a little shocked that the cost was only 30 Tl., but figured that our mid-week tickets were making up the difference.
When we arrived at the station, we realized there were actually two options. One is the Anadolu Express, which we had booked, and the other the Ankara Express. The Anadolu costs half as much because you share your cabin with three other people, instead of just one. Also the Ankara has a small refrigerator that offers free snacks for the ride as well as your own sink for freshening up. I’m not sure, but I’m willing to bet the Ankara train has much cleaner bathrooms on it, too.
Our train was supposed to go out of track 2, according to the electronic signs, but actually went out of track 3. Good ol’ Turkish directions…However, it did leave on time. We found our cabin and waited for the train to pull out so the car captain could give us our bedding, and we could call it a night.
This all transpired within the first half hour and we were blissfully sleeping by 10:30. We were woken up a few times in the night, once by a cat…who knows what that meant, but for the most part we slept until the morning when we had to pack up our things and get off. I definitely would recommend this mode of transport at least one way if traveling between Istanbul and Ankara. For a family, or if you are traveling with a group, the Anadolu is just fine, but if you want a few more amenities and fewer traveling companions, go with the Ankara.
How to get to the train stations:
In Ankara, the train leaves from the main station or “Gar”. Very easy to get to, and of course every taxi driver knows the way. If you are downtown, say in Kizilay, it will cost about 10 tl. to get there.
In Istanbul, the train leaves from Haydirpasa. This is a bit trickier. If you are starting your trip here, you need to take the ferry (1.50 tl) from Eminonu to Haydirpasa (Kadakoy). The train station does have wi-fi and a restaurant for your waiting pleasure. The great thing is the ferry docks at the train station so either way, you are very close to your end destination, which is actually much easier than taking a bus.