April 23rd was Children’s Day here in Turkey.  The entire country, but especially the schools, are decorated in Turkish flags as well as photos of Ataturk.  Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was the first president of Turkey after he helped gain indepence from Greece.  He set up the First Grand National Assembly on this [... Celebrating Children’s Day in Turkey]]]>

Children's Day in Kizilay

April 23rd was Children’s Day here in Turkey.  The entire country, but especially the schools, are decorated in Turkish flags as well as photos of Ataturk.  Mustafa Kemal Ataturk was the first president of Turkey after he helped gain indepence from Greece.  He set up the First Grand National Assembly on this day in Ankara, which he made the new capital of the country.  That was in 1920, but in 1927 he dedicated this day to children to emphasize their role in Turkey’s future.

Kids all over the country prepare sports and cultural events to show the community on this day.  Many of the programs revolve around traditional dances and customs to celebrate their “Turkishness.”  There area also plenty of activities like plays, art exhibits, parades, and lots of other activities for children last the entire week.

We went down to Tunali, which is one of the busiest streets in all of Ankara.  We usually try to avoid it at all costs. If you are visiting, though, there are plenty of bars, restaurants, and cafes.  Normally, it takes you at least 10 minutes to drive through the intersection, but on this day, the road was completely blocked off for the parade.  In Kuglu (Swan) park, there were characters in costumes, a stage with dances and bands, and of course some snack vendors.  The park was decorated in a rainbow of netting, and children were getting their faces painted.  The parade itself was very short with the entire crowd following it.

This float honors Nasreddin Hoja, a lovable folk character.

It was an interesting little celebration, but I would recommend seeking one out if you happen to be in the country during the week of April 23rd.

Ankara is an ancient town; it has been inhabited by someone since about 3000 BC. The first to arrive, the Phrygians had a small settlement.  The capital of Phrygia was Gordion about 45 kilometers to the west.    It didn’t become a major city until the Celts conquered it in 278 BC.  The Galatians (a [... Romping Through Roman Ankara]]]>

Temple of Augustus

Ankara is an ancient town; it has been inhabited by someone since about 3000 BC. The first to arrive, the Phrygians had a small settlement.  The capital of Phrygia was Gordion about 45 kilometers to the west. 
 
It didn’t become a major city until the Celts conquered it in 278 BC.  The Galatians (a Celtic tribe) were very influential with the Phrygians and the language of the Celts (a sort of Welsh or Gaelic) hung around for centuries after the Celts had left the city.  The only monument that I know of that still exists from this time period is a tomb which, although found while constructing one of the buildings not far from our apartment, was moved to the outdoor museum of the Roman Baths.  The Galatians were the first to build a fortress where the Citadel stands today, but what we see was built during the Seljuk period with left over pieces from previous times.
 
After the Celts came the Romans, and they really made Ankara into a thriving city.  The Romans were around from 25 BC until 2 AD.  Population estimates for that period are all over the place, but conservative academics think that there were at least 100,000 people at the time.  Hidden away in the musty corners of Ankara, aournd the Ulus area, there is still quite a bit of Roman evidence to be found.
 

Columns located in the Roman Bath complex.

Overall the Roman sites in Ankara are not as impressive as other places in Turkey, but they are here.  We’ve visited the Roman Baths, the Roman Theatre, and the, very short, section of the Roman Road  which used to lead up to the Temple of Julian.

All of the sites are not far from the shopping in Ulus, so it is easy to spend a day in and around the area, and that’s without even visiting the wonderful museums there.

We’ve joined this wonderful group called the Friends of the American Research Institute which supports scholars and archaeologists all over Turkey.  The group does tours in and around Ankara and it also holds, lectures, movie nights, and even an “Antiques Road Show.”  It’s been great learning about [... Listening to the Past at Pembe Köşk]]]>

The house where the 2nd president of Turkey lived.

We’ve joined this wonderful group called the Friends of the American Research Institute which supports scholars and archaeologists all over Turkey.  The group does tours in and around Ankara and it also holds, lectures, movie nights, and even an “Antiques Road Show.”  It’s been great learning about Turkey from this standpoint as opposed to being just your run-of-the-mill tourist.

One of the places they took us was to Pembe Köşk, which was the home of the second president, Ismet Inönü.  He was a great friend of Ataturk, who actually gave him his name.  He was named after the location of the last battle of the War of Independence.  He was president from 1938-1950. 

The organization (FARIT) has built a relationship with his daughter, Ozden Toker, and she took us around the house herself telling us personal stories about her father and of course the items in the house.

As we sipped wine, we wandered through the bottom part of the house and listened to a history that amazed me since I could only imagine the people that she was talking about.  For example, Jim and I were completely intrigued by a chess set that was given to Inönü by Stalin.  They were red and white pieces, with a very propogandist theme. The white pieces were Czarist with starving peasants in chains for pawns. The red pieces were, of course, the communists, the pawns here were happy workers wielding scythes and clutching bundles of wheat.  Very interesting!

Pembe Köşk is only open twice a year, in April and October, but if you happen to be passing through during those times, I would certainly put it on my list.

In the middle of Ankara, high on a hill, and very visible, is Ataturk’s Mausoleum.  Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic in 1923 is honored here.  The grounds are impeccably maintained and security is never lax at this oasis in the [... The Father of the Country….Ataturk]]]>

Elite military from all services perform the flag ceremony at Ataturk's Mausoleum.

In the middle of Ankara, high on a hill, and very visible, is Ataturk’s Mausoleum.  Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, the founder of the Turkish Republic in 1923 is honored here.  The grounds are impeccably maintained and security is never lax at this oasis in the middle of the hot, dry city.

Not one day passes without thousands of visitors, as Ataturk is the most beloved man in Turkey’s history.  He is credited with educating the population, making primary school mandatory; as well as bringing Turkey’s agriculture into the 20th century, teaching the people how to feed themselves.

The size of the mausoleum correlates to the love the Turkish people feel for him, their first president.

It is easy to spend a few hours here, as their is a museum of military history that chronicles the major battles that Ataturk fought in.  The displays are complete, well-built, and fascinating.

Since the girls are here, we wanted to take them to Istanbul.  We’ve heard numerous people tell us about the night train and what a great deal it was, 60 TL. each way; getting into the city in the morning, so you don’t have to pay for another night’s hotel or [... The Two Largest Cities by Night Train]]]>

Bunks on the Anadolu Express

Since the girls are here, we wanted to take them to Istanbul.  We’ve heard numerous people tell us about the night train and what a great deal it was, 60 TL. each way; getting into the city in the morning, so you don’t have to pay for another night’s hotel or waste your daytime getting there.  We decided to do it and booked tickets direct from the train station about a week before we were to leave.  We were a little shocked that the cost was only 30 Tl., but figured that our mid-week tickets were making up the difference.
When we arrived at the station, we realized there were actually two options.  One is the Anadolu Express, which we had booked, and the other the Ankara Express.  The Anadolu costs half as much because you share your cabin with three other people, instead of just one.  Also the Ankara has a small refrigerator that offers free snacks for the ride as well as your own sink for freshening up.  I’m not sure, but I’m willing to bet the Ankara train has much cleaner bathrooms on it, too.
Our train was supposed to go out of track 2, according to the electronic signs, but actually went out of track 3.  Good ol’ Turkish directions…However, it did leave on time.  We found our cabin and waited for the train to pull out so the car captain could give us our bedding, and we could call it a night.
This all transpired within the first half hour and we were blissfully sleeping by 10:30.  We were woken up a few times in the night, once by a cat…who knows what that meant, but for the most part we slept until the morning when we had to pack up our things and get off.  I definitely would recommend this mode of transport at least one way if traveling between Istanbul and Ankara.  For a family, or if you are traveling with a group, the Anadolu is just fine, but if you want a few more amenities and fewer traveling companions, go with the Ankara.
How to get to the train stations:
In Ankara, the train leaves from the main station or “Gar”.  Very easy to get to, and of course every taxi driver knows the way.  If you are downtown, say in Kizilay, it will cost about 10 tl. to get there. 
In Istanbul, the train leaves from Haydirpasa.  This is a bit trickier.  If you are starting your trip here, you need to take the ferry (1.50 tl) from Eminonu to Haydirpasa (Kadakoy).  The train station does have wi-fi and a restaurant for your waiting pleasure.  The great thing is the ferry docks at the train station so either way, you are very close to your end destination, which is actually much easier than taking a bus.